We awoke to find we had left the South China Sea and were headed down the Saigon River towards Ho Chi Minh City, known by all the locals by the "old" name of Saigon. Each time we head into port, a local "pilot" boards the ship and helps navigate the channel. Our Vietnamese pilot boarded around 1am and we docked about seven hours later. Closer to Saigon, traffic on the river picked up. Yes, no one could resist shouting, "Good Morning, Vietnam!"
This lovely group of Vietnamese women greeted us in their traditional "ao dai" dresses.
Next up was one of Steve's FDP's: Temples and Churches of Ho Chi Minh City. We began this fascinating tour by driving past a memorial to the Buddhist monk who set himself on fire to protest the Catholic regime of President Diem, who was in power in the 1950s and 60s. His self-immolation became a model for several others, but his was the first and most famous. They are actually constructing an entire park across from this memorial to honor him. We then went the Pagoda that was at the heart of the Buddhist resistance to the Diem government. Diem's raid on this temple set in motion the events that would lead to his murder. This temple is called the Xa Loi Pagoda and contains a relic from the Buddha (a bone piece that was allegedly saved from his cremation--it is only displayed on very special occasions).
This lovely group of Vietnamese women greeted us in their traditional "ao dai" dresses.
Our first stop was a Vietnamese Water Puppet performance in a lovely outdoor venue at the History Museum. The performance was one of my "FDP's", Faculty Directed Practica, meaning that I had incorporated this visit into my courses and many of my students joined us for this excursion.
It was great to see the puppets up close--and to see the puppeteers for a wet curtain call.
We were glad for the opportunity to talk with the artistic director about this fascinating form of theatre unique to Vietnam. Water Puppetry originated in 11th century Vietnamese villages where it made sense to develop an artform that relies on water. The local people made puppets out of fig tree wood, painted them with countless coats of special lacquer, created an underwater rod and pulley system for the puppeteers to manipulate from behind a screen, and enacted stories of village life and ancient tales familiar to all. In the past several decades, the art form has enjoyed a resurgance as a source of culture pride for the country and an accessible and entertaining tourist activity. A dissapointment for me was that this performance was accompanied by a taped soundtrack, rather than the live instrumentalists and vocalists I had hoped we would hear.
We were glad for the opportunity to talk with the artistic director about this fascinating form of theatre unique to Vietnam. Water Puppetry originated in 11th century Vietnamese villages where it made sense to develop an artform that relies on water. The local people made puppets out of fig tree wood, painted them with countless coats of special lacquer, created an underwater rod and pulley system for the puppeteers to manipulate from behind a screen, and enacted stories of village life and ancient tales familiar to all. In the past several decades, the art form has enjoyed a resurgance as a source of culture pride for the country and an accessible and entertaining tourist activity. A dissapointment for me was that this performance was accompanied by a taped soundtrack, rather than the live instrumentalists and vocalists I had hoped we would hear.
Several of the SAS families joined us for the trip, and the kids posed for a photo after the show.
Next up was one of Steve's FDP's: Temples and Churches of Ho Chi Minh City. We began this fascinating tour by driving past a memorial to the Buddhist monk who set himself on fire to protest the Catholic regime of President Diem, who was in power in the 1950s and 60s. His self-immolation became a model for several others, but his was the first and most famous. They are actually constructing an entire park across from this memorial to honor him. We then went the Pagoda that was at the heart of the Buddhist resistance to the Diem government. Diem's raid on this temple set in motion the events that would lead to his murder. This temple is called the Xa Loi Pagoda and contains a relic from the Buddha (a bone piece that was allegedly saved from his cremation--it is only displayed on very special occasions).
This is a Taoist Temple dedicated to the Jade Emperor, a Taoist divinity who is connected to many stories about the creation of the world and an original paradise (as well as stories about cowherd girls). It was incredibly colorful and baroque. There are very few pure Taoists in Vietnam (estimated at 5000) but in Taoism is easily assimiliated into Buddhism by most Vietnamese.
Behind the Jade Temple was a repository for ashes. Throughout Asia, Buddhism is the religion people turn to for funerals. (In Japan they say Buddhism is for the sad times and Shinto for the happy times.) In front of the Temple, visitors could buy a small bird to set free for good luck. Steve bought one for Barek, who held the small bird and let him fly free into the air. I don't know what Barek wished for, but I prayed for no bird flu as I doused him with hand sanitizer!
This is the Le Van Duyet Temple, dedicated to the South Vietnam General who saved the South from invasion and is a great national hero to the South. The Communists did not like him (because he was evidence of a distinct southern identity) and barely tolerated this temple up to four or five years ago. Our tour guide said guards were there constantly and anyone caught talking to a Western visitor in the Temple would have been sent to prison. Fortunately, the Communists decided a few years ago to start tolerating religion, though members of the Communist party are forbidden to believe in anything except Communist doctrine and the semi-divinity of Uncle Ho.
There are many Catholic Churches in Vietnam, but this is the largest and is located in the heart of the city. Notre Dame Cathedral was built by the French in 1883.
There were tens and tens of thousands of Malaysian Muslims in South Vietnam, but almost all of them left after 1975 when the Communists took over. This is their central Mosque. It was refreshing and startling to see a place of worship that was so spartan, abstract, and devoid of imagery after visiting the various Buddhist temples.
There are a number of Hindu Temples in Vietnam. This one was dedicated to Mariamman. There are only a few Hindus left in Vietnam, but the Buddhists have adopted this temple as one of their own.
This is a small Cao Dai Temple (at least compared to the large one in central Vietnam). This religion was founded/created in the 1920s by a man who wanted to honor and unify all the religions then present in Vietnam. Some think of it as a form of Buddhism (greatly expanded), others as a brand new religion (though it is found only in Vietnam). Victor Hugo is the patron saint, and they worship just about everyone, including Jesus Christ. It was growing for awhile in Vietnam but has been in decline in recent years.
Behind the Jade Temple was a repository for ashes. Throughout Asia, Buddhism is the religion people turn to for funerals. (In Japan they say Buddhism is for the sad times and Shinto for the happy times.) In front of the Temple, visitors could buy a small bird to set free for good luck. Steve bought one for Barek, who held the small bird and let him fly free into the air. I don't know what Barek wished for, but I prayed for no bird flu as I doused him with hand sanitizer!
This is the Le Van Duyet Temple, dedicated to the South Vietnam General who saved the South from invasion and is a great national hero to the South. The Communists did not like him (because he was evidence of a distinct southern identity) and barely tolerated this temple up to four or five years ago. Our tour guide said guards were there constantly and anyone caught talking to a Western visitor in the Temple would have been sent to prison. Fortunately, the Communists decided a few years ago to start tolerating religion, though members of the Communist party are forbidden to believe in anything except Communist doctrine and the semi-divinity of Uncle Ho.
There are many Catholic Churches in Vietnam, but this is the largest and is located in the heart of the city. Notre Dame Cathedral was built by the French in 1883.
There were tens and tens of thousands of Malaysian Muslims in South Vietnam, but almost all of them left after 1975 when the Communists took over. This is their central Mosque. It was refreshing and startling to see a place of worship that was so spartan, abstract, and devoid of imagery after visiting the various Buddhist temples.
There are a number of Hindu Temples in Vietnam. This one was dedicated to Mariamman. There are only a few Hindus left in Vietnam, but the Buddhists have adopted this temple as one of their own.
This is a small Cao Dai Temple (at least compared to the large one in central Vietnam). This religion was founded/created in the 1920s by a man who wanted to honor and unify all the religions then present in Vietnam. Some think of it as a form of Buddhism (greatly expanded), others as a brand new religion (though it is found only in Vietnam). Victor Hugo is the patron saint, and they worship just about everyone, including Jesus Christ. It was growing for awhile in Vietnam but has been in decline in recent years.
We ended our day at a very nice Vietnamese restaurant overlooking the city where we ordered away, consuming more food and drink than we needed--and paid only about $50. Charis ordered fresh grilled shrimp that arrived looking more like small lobsters. She bet Barek $5 to eat a set of shrimp eyeballs--and he did.
Here are two short clips from today's puppet show:
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