Kumbalanghi Village, Cochin--and more Kathakali

Our second day in Cochin, we went on an SAS trip to the nearby Kumbalanghi village in the backwaters of Kerala. Bus is a popular mode of transportation and during our time in India we often found ourselves alongside an Indian bus. This one was not nearly as crowded as they usually are. All around Cochin are the ancient Chinese cantilevered fishing nets still used for catching fish. We were given hats for our boat ride.

We took off in a large wooden boat to cross the water to the village.

The banana trees made everything look beautiful.

We were welcomed with garlands of jasmine.

Fresh coconuts were sliced open for us to drink. The youngest coconuts have the most juice--they are absolutely filled with coconut water. If the coconut is a bit older, it also has some tender meat inside.

The fishermen caught some large crabs for us to see. A coconut farmer opened an older coconut, which had the thick, firmer coconut meat inside, similar to what is available in the states.

The fishermen harvest Tiger shrimp. Brave Barek touches one of them!

The people of Kerala use every last bit of the coconut tree. Here, women are separating out the coconut fiber, which begins the rope-making process.

Next, the coconut fiber is spun and pulled out into long ropes. Coir rope-making, as it is called, is a huge local industry. The women coir-makers loved Barek and Asher!

Small-shelled muscles are harvested from the sea and put in the inner basket, which has a loose weave. After moving the inner basket back and forth a number of times, the shells and the muscles separate. I could have eaten the whole basket, they were so good.

Someone said that the temperatures reached 42 degrees Celsius, which would be 107 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't know if that was true, but it was certainly very hot and probably over 100. I think the picture of Steve says it all. (And, no, he did not pour a bottle of water on himself. That is sweat!)

These cute girls were so much fun to talk with. They were on their way to take their big final exams at school.

The leaves of the coconut trees are woven and used as thatched roofs for the houses. A thatched roof lasts about two years before it needs replacing.

Some young Muslim men performed a local dance called the Kolkali, a vigorous dance that included chanting, baton-whacking, and lots of energy.

We sat down to a lovely Kerala lunch right by the water.

The kids were very happy that some of the Indian rope was used for a huge swing.

Next we rode autorickshaws through the village streets. We met the girls again! They said they had done well on their exams! We passed many churches in the villages and in Cochin as well. In the Cochin area, 95% of the Christians are Catholic and we enjoyed seeing the churches and shrines in the streets.

Back in Cochin, we saw more fishing nets, an outdoor market, and St. Francis Church, which has been several different denominations over the centuries. Originally Catholic, the church is now Anglican. Vasco de Gama, the first European to open the sea route to India (in 1497), died in Cochin and was buried in this church. His tomb is still there, although his grandson took his bones back to Portugal. There are Portugese, Chinese and Dutch influences throughout Cochin, which is still a major port on the Arabian Sea coast, and is part of the main trade route between Europe and China.

Cochin is a smaller, greener city than Chennai, although it is still quite crowded. On the way back to the ship we passed this small fish market and lots of street vendors.

Back on the ship, the SAS program had invited a local Kathakali Dance Drama group to perform before we set sail. I went backstage and met the actors before the show. They demonstrated many of the mudras (gestures) used in Kathakali, before presenting a short performance.


The story was about a prince and a nice young woman, who really turned out to be a demoness!As she begins to attack the prince, he realizes her true nature and kills her.

Afterwards, Charis got her picture taken with the actors.

We went out on the deck for a late dinner and took our last looks at the port of Cochin.

Here are several videos: Barek with mussels, a coconut tree farmer up in a tree, the Kolkali Dance, the Kolkali Dance finale, pottery-making, Charis rope-making, and Kathakali Dance drama on the ship.